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mascrappo

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Posts: 14
Reply with quote  #1 
I had to move my Ku dish due to trees growing up. It was about 65 feet of RG6, now almost 150'.

While my old Openbox S9/10 still moves Stab HH90 just fine at new location, the new Octagon SX88 seems to struggle? Not going to judge the little guy just yet as I have 2 splice connectors on current cable while I wait on new connectors to arrive to make one continuous run. I know it can lose a lot going through connectors.

What it's doing is struggling to reach far west to 125w. It will go to it, program comes in, then it backs up, then goes again and after a minute or two will finally lock on? Strange as it only does on AMC21?

I am using USALS like I have for past 10 years.

Anyone using the SX88 with a long coax like I am planning to do?
majortom

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Reply with quote  #2 
For the coax that you are using, make sure to be using a quality Solid Copper (SC) coax (avoid CCS like the plague), and a quad shield will help to keep the DC resistance to a minimum. Might help
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Perfect 10 7.5' mesh Chapparal C/Ku Co-Rotor feed, Norsat 8115 CBAND, Norsat 4106A Ku Thomson Saginaw Actuator, Vbox positioner,
Home Brew Polarotor683 Servo circuit. Openbox S9, Prof7500, v4l-updatelee linux drivers installed.
DB8E/VHF Yagi rotor FM Bandstop ap-8700 preamp 8way split LG lcd.
ricardo's geo-orbit archive: https://web.archive.org/web/20071202191450/http://www.geo-orbit.org:80/sizepgs/tuningp2.html

wejones

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Reply with quote  #3 
Quote:
Originally Posted by majortom
For the coax that you are using, make sure to be using a quality Solid Copper (SC) coax (avoid CCS like the plague), and a quad shield will help to keep the DC resistance to a minimum. Might help

I agree, however for me solid copper has some important problems, such that the copper coated works better for me. My problem is that I have runs that are also out in the 200-280' range, and my coax goes through several lengths of conduit, both underground and through false ceilings indoors.  Problem is that over the years I have been adding lengths of coax such that it is very hard to get new coax through, or remove old coax.  I've had to pull so hard to get solid copper through, that the center conductor tends to stretch and at times even break.  Now I have a few lengths of solid copper wire that doesn't work anymore, and the conduit is so full of replacement coax that I can't get the bad wires out or new wires in.  If I had used copper coated, I might have a bit of DC loss, but wouldn't be in this situation where I don't have enough coaxes to feed signals in from all my dishes.  I could replace the outside sections by digging them up with a backhoe, but the inside problem areas would be major construction job to replace since the conduit was put in before a tongue and grove wood ceiling was installed.  Yes, I should have thought of this before putting the last coax through there, but it's done now.  Only thing I can think of is finding a somewhat loose copper coated coax, and hope that it will come out, leaving enough space to allow other wires to come out.

majortom

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Reply with quote  #4 
IMO Coax only lasts for so long and is meant to be replaced anyhow no matter what you do.
I probably would have removed anything that failed in your conduit and thrown it in the trash
rather than try to pull more in. If we are talking 15 to 20 years old or more, I'd consider replacing it no matter
what it is.

I remembered doing some number crunching to compare SC to CCS
https://rickcaylor.websitetoolbox.com/post/stab-hh120-issue-need-help-7051904?pid=1302738673&highlight=dc+resistance



__________________
Perfect 10 7.5' mesh Chapparal C/Ku Co-Rotor feed, Norsat 8115 CBAND, Norsat 4106A Ku Thomson Saginaw Actuator, Vbox positioner,
Home Brew Polarotor683 Servo circuit. Openbox S9, Prof7500, v4l-updatelee linux drivers installed.
DB8E/VHF Yagi rotor FM Bandstop ap-8700 preamp 8way split LG lcd.
ricardo's geo-orbit archive: https://web.archive.org/web/20071202191450/http://www.geo-orbit.org:80/sizepgs/tuningp2.html

mascrappo

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Posts: 14
Reply with quote  #5 
I will be using solid copper quad. I didn't have the correct connectors for quad, but expect them to arrive this week. I will keep ya posted if it cures it. Thanks!
Captain_Kurtz

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Posts: 3,936
Reply with quote  #6 
Many receivers have a setting to increase the voltage sent to the dish to compensate for long cable runs.
Don't know about the Octagon SX88, but in the SF8008 the setting is "increased voltage"; with other receivers you change a setting from "14V/18V" to "14.5V/18.5V".
This will help offset ohmic losses (i.e., DC resistance of the cable) in long cable runs.
This is meant to be used in conjunction with replacing older, damaged / substandard cable with new solid copper, quad shield RG6 per MT's post; just avoid applying too much tension (don't pull the cable too hard) per WJ's posts, not as a substitute for new cable; bad or substandard cable or too many splices will also cause additional problems with the signal coming back from the dish.
Another option is to use RG11, but it costs more.
mascrappo

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Posts: 14
Reply with quote  #7 
This tiny receiver does not appear to have any voltage setting, but I will keep looking.

I am using PerfectVision solid copper core quad RG6, I hope that's good. Like I mentioned, it's been 10 years since I messed with this and things/suppliers have changed.
mascrappo

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Posts: 14
Reply with quote  #8 
Changed my coax today, so far so good! No more dish issues searching for 125W. I got the run down to 135'.
beano_face

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Reply with quote  #9 
nice. ya i have (2) 100 ft runs of coax to my KU dish... wondered if that would be too far, but so far so good... 
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- dish = 39" Digiwave, lnbf = dmx 522
- receivers = AZbox premium, Coolsat 6000, freesat v8 nova
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Fellow Members, your posts are welcome here! Do not worry about posting everything perfect. Different receivers and LNB's will give you different Frequencies and Symbol Rates. Some set top boxes, PCI cards and USB receivers, Do Not Require all of the same information that others may need. It is not Required to post everything that others may need to tune in a feed. It is just most important to share the find. We can always adjust the Frequency and Symbol Rates and try the various Modulations and FEC's on our own receivers until we get a lock and then give a polite reply with what works for your receiver, as that information might help others as well. We all appreciate the efforts and energy of the Posters!

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