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Posts: 136
Reply with quote  #1 
when is windy or slight windy all my recording get corrupted its  9mph right now what is the consensus of wind speed that moves a 10 foot dish


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Posts: 1,604
Reply with quote  #2 
9mph should not be a problem
mine has had straight line winds of 60+, no problem's
Mine did move though, when Hurricane katrina came through at about 95-100[eek]

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Posts: 8,276
Reply with quote  #3 
Hi cband56,

Going to depending on the overall condition of the dish.  If there is play in any of the bolts and the dish is loose and can shake, then even with some not so strong winds, the dish may move to much and cause the picture to pixelize and audio to chirp.

But with a big heavy solid dish and no play, then it can with stand a hard wind and have no effect on a signal.

If your having trouble recording, then what kind of trouble is it?  Even is a signal was breaking up, most receivers will continue recording and you will see the picture pixel and audio skip or chirp.  Is this happening to you are is the receiver telling you the recording is corrupt?



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Keep your eyes on the Sky!


Posts: 136
Reply with quote  #4 
yeah the signal breaks up when its really windy, and would like to know from engineers out there that is it better that a 10 foot dish that is installed on a roof to have same movement so it doesn't translate all the vibration and damage the foundation? all bolts seem very tight looks like I did not have digital hickups today at9mph


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Posts: 5,165
Reply with quote  #5 
if you are looking for advice, post some pictures of the install so people actually know what ur lookin at.
Perfect 10 7.5' mesh Chapparal C/Ku Co-Rotor feed, Norsat 8115 CBAND, Norsat 4106A Ku Thomson Saginaw Actuator, Vbox positioner,
Home Brew Polarotor683 Servo circuit. Openbox S9, Prof7500, v4l-updatelee linux drivers installed.
ricardo's geo-orbit archive: https://web.archive.org/web/20071202191450/http://www.geo-orbit.org:80/sizepgs/tuningp2.html

Posts: 20
Reply with quote  #6 
Wind - the forces of air 
Since the 80's me and my air have heard about wind; from you the loyal viewer of satellite tv rated techs. And the facts are that all weather, picture quality; designed satellite reception technology; and lasting power of a building to a hut in the wild; is based upon a fight against it.

1) Across the US, the weather is determined, or followed; and forecasters use second by second (time) data to predict what each area or "placed weather" will happen next. This data is important, and forecasters with it depend on being right/correct in what happens next where.

a) FEC - this number determines whether the signal is read "good", or of a frame that has something missing; and whether the "controls" jump forward; or make the picture continue rolling in time forward 1/60 of a second; each. If it detects too many errors; this is where the picture starts to square and where; and if it, the 60 per second actuation IF THE SIGNAL IS GOOD ENOUGH- it shows every pixel every 1/60 of a second, at 1080 or all the way to 320 cif. IF THE FEC hits bad; the picture loses lock, double lock; and triple lock formula's; each a requirement for the picture to show; and how good the picture; bandwidth the picture is on; and constellation it MUST HAVE AVAILABLE is for every second.

Depending on the size of the dish used and lnbf as a combo; determines a baseline of a dishes pointing ability; and how well it works for the tuner inside your home. If the aimed dish is perfectly receiving the amount of gain from the constellation, the entire satellite can be watched (designed satellite power received and dish/lnbf combo made for its reception.

IF THE DISH moves even 1/4 of an inch from its designed reflector/lnbf directional gain; the ability to gain drop's OFF THE CLIFF (fec says so). WIND IS THE PROBLEM. This has always caused me to choose to build the satellite dish with mitigationary tactic's; and it must be done, or the picture will become alien instead of friendly.
1) Always build c band dish as low to the ground as possible; with bracing of lengths @ weights as designed strength in the System, and statics in the design. So if you are holding a 12 foot dish, it must have a static "sense" against natural forces SO IT DOES NOT MOVE. Taking the motor and dish pivot out of the equation leave the strength of the material of the dish and the top of the pole AS THE MAIN FACTORS in STATICS; and determine if the dish will move; and how much for each wind speed that applies itself to your dish. Steel @ certain thickness; alum. mesh and ribs thickness and types; or plastic/fiber/heated core of steel; thin steel dish/post/pole; and bracing if any. bI have even tied a satellite dish down, LILLIPUTION STYLE (16 wires were used to keep the dish "static" in every way, it was alum. mesh); to keep a big dish from moving in the wind; and it worked! This is design for time; as i had to make sure the dish worked at a certain time and exactly perfect for a day of time; and i even had it on a trailer; when the wind hit it; the tires flexed, but the dish/trailer moved only that much ( 1/10) of inch is ok! 32APSK also has signal integrity as a requirement; additionally making the signal a factor (entire satellite constellation as sourced data link).
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Fellow Members, your posts are welcome here! Do not worry about posting everything perfect. Different receivers and LNB's will give you different Frequencies and Symbol Rates. Some set top boxes, PCI cards and USB receivers, Do Not Require all of the same information that others may need. It is not Required to post everything that others may need to tune in a feed. It is just most important to share the find. We can always adjust the Frequency and Symbol Rates and try the various Modulations and FEC's on our own receivers until we get a lock and then give a polite reply with what works for your receiver, as that information might help others as well. We all appreciate the efforts and energy of the Posters!

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