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Captain_Kurtz

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Reply with quote  #61 
Quote:
After crunching some numbers to compare, IMO Copper Coated Steel has no business being used in a satellite system, or anything else that carries any DC power along the cable. If you can positively confirm solid copper center conductor being used then I don't know what to tell ya. Maybe something changed. Ideal cable type for use with a motor would be Solid Copper Center Conductor with Quad Shield Braid. It would offer the least amount of DC resistance in both the center conductor, and the shield.


Thanks for the good advice, MT. All my cable runs are short, but I am eventually going to do what you said and buy solid copper RG6 (or RG11) QS, direct burial grade.

I have also thought about modding the Stab HH120 to power the motor separately with a constant 18V. Obviously that would require a run of actuator power cable to the motor and an 18V power supply in the house.


birdwatcher_ed

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Reply with quote  #62 
Hello everyone,

I've had this Stab 120 for a week now.   My southern sat is 87w.   From 87w to 117w, the USALS is performing rather well.  It's only when I get to 123w and 125w, that things get really quirky with this motor.  

Firstly, whenever I attempt to blind scan those sats (123 and 125), the Horizontal TPs scan in as expected.  The Vertical Tps, won't scan in.  Instead, the motor is somehow receiving a command to move the dish eastward to my southern Sat (87), and then all the way back again westward to where I started.   When I do an individual TP scan on the Vertical frequencies, the motor will move eastward to southern sat, back westward, ad nauseam.   There seems to be a problem with Vertical frequencies on those two sats, toward the end of the warc.  I haven't tried it toward the other end of the arc, since there doesn't seem to be much full time programming that I'm interested in.   

I've got the motor going through a 4x1, and then 8x1, and then STB.  I've been thinking about running the cable either to the 8x1, and then STB, or simply having a dedicated STB just for this dish/motor.  Time's run out today, maybe tomorrow I'll try it.  It's about a 80ft to 90ft cable run, from dish to STB.  I'm using RG6 copper cable.  And I haven't tried 1.2, maybe I'll give that I try tomorrow as well.  If anybody can chime in, it would be appreciated.  If you need more info, just let me know.

Thanks,
Ed


PS.  I disabled limits, several times, and reset the counter with "reference point".


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voomvoom

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Reply with quote  #63 
I don't know if this will help you?
I run my cable like this:
Linkbox 9000i > motor > 8x1 > multi-switch > LNB
I use 1.1 protocals

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birdwatcher_ed

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Reply with quote  #64 
Quote:
I don't know if this will help you?
I run my cable like this:
Linkbox 9000i > motor > 8x1 > multi-switch > LNB
I use 1.1 protocals
 


Thanks for responding.  I don't have a multi-switch, but I've written your suggestion down in my "sat book" for future reference.  I think I just solved the issue here.  I went outside, replaced the 4x1, and now everything is working fine.  The 4x1 was about 4 years old, and being outdoors, even with a protective cover, may have taken a toll on it. It was switching 4 LNBF's, and was working okay, except for the port doing the switching for the Stab.  The other ports are for stationary LNBF's.  Vertical polarities were affected the most.  The V polarities would trigger the malfunction.  The Stab would rotate all over the place, or sometimes not rotate at all.  At least, that was my observation.  Now, everything is working like it should be.  Thanks again for the help![smile]

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Fellow Members, your posts are welcome here! Do not worry about posting everything perfect. Different receivers and LNB's will give you different Frequencies and Symbol Rates. Some set top boxes, PCI cards and USB receivers, Do Not Require all of the same information that others may need. It is not Required to post everything that others may need to tune in a feed. It is just most important to share the find. We can always adjust the Frequency and Symbol Rates and try the various Modulations and FEC's on our own receivers until we get a lock and then give a polite reply with what works for your receiver, as that information might help others as well. We all appreciate the efforts and energy of the Posters!

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