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11tuckerjones11

Registered: 02/19/10
Posts: 52
Reply with quote  #1 
OK I use to be a dealer since 1983 (one of the first)  but retired and sold the business after I established a healthy small dish customer list.

I was going throught one of my old equipment barns and found a new in the box 9 foot solid "Birdview" with H/H and this is the one (White) that had the LNA legs welded to four plugs in the dish...

I'm going to put it up and tie in with a AZ Box receiver, want to run it on both C & KU band..

Now can someone save me a ton of R&D and give me the best c/Ku/FTA lna/lnb set up and what interface to use for the drive counter.

I ran a couple of search's on Ricks site but not too much info....

Thanks..

-Tucker
JeffW

Registered: 11/12/10
Posts: 272
Reply with quote  #2 
I have the same dish, salvaged and sitting in storage waiting for me to get around to doing some repair on it. The legs you mentioned are all broken off the dish on mine from turkeys roosting on them. I haven't tested the motor yet.

From posts I have read here and in other forums, it seems the best way to create a drive counter is to build a magnet wheel and install a reed switch. I saw plans for that somewhere - I will try and locate them again.

Most people also recommend retaining the four legs, along with the original scaler, and mounting a new lnb/lnbf setup to that. It requires a fair amount of work to get a birdview functional again, but everybody seems love them. The fact that you have one new in the box solves half the battle of dealing with old, worn, rusty parts.


jman59

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Registered: 04/16/10
Posts: 77
Reply with quote  #3 
Wow, I have never seen a 9' Birdview.

I don't have one but have seen and helped setup a few in my area, but they were all 8'-6 (some solid and some perforated).

From what I have seen they are well worth the effort to bring back to life, most here have done the magnet wheel\reed switch conversion, and drove them with G/V-Boxes or old analog IRDs.

JeffW

Registered: 11/12/10
Posts: 272
Reply with quote  #4 
Quote:
Wow, I have never seen a 9' Birdview


Actually, mine measures 9' 6" and is solid metal. I found an old Birdview brochure online that lists sizes as 8,9, and 10 foot.

Here's a pdf for a magnet wheel template. Don't remember where I found it but had it stashed on my computer.


 
Attached Files
pdf BIRDVIEW_Magnet_Wheel_Template.pdf (17.86 KB, 103 views)

LoneCloud

Registered: 08/29/08
Posts: 197
Reply with quote  #5 
I have one,  an 8'6" solid and if you have one bigger than that, you have a rare item.

I actually did the magnet wheel modification.  I have been using a Radio Shack reed switch with it for maybe three years.  The template on there is a time saver.  I spent almost an entire Sunday with a compass/divider getting the positions of the magnets,
With the template, you can just print it out and glue it to the disk you are using.

I got the little quarter inch round magnets at Michael's craft store.  The disk I used was made with a pvc cap I got at Lowes.  Four inch I think.  I cut the flat disk part off the cap with a three inch hole saw.

Once you have the disk and have  it drilled out for the magnet holes, you have to remember to switch the polarity of the magnets next to each other N-S-N-S-N-S ....  

I can help with the project.  

Costactc

Avatar / Picture

Registered: 11/25/09
Posts: 582
Reply with quote  #6 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 11tuckerjones11
OK I use to be a dealer since 1983 (one of the first)  but retired and sold the business after I established a healthy small dish customer list.

I was going throught one of my old equipment barns and found a new in the box 9 foot solid "Birdview" with H/H and this is the one (White) that had the LNA legs welded to four plugs in the dish...

I'm going to put it up and tie in with a AZ Box receiver, want to run it on both C & KU band..

Now can someone save me a ton of R&D and give me the best c/Ku/FTA lna/lnb set up and what interface to use for the drive counter.

I ran a couple of search's on Ricks site but not too much info....

Thanks..

-Tucker


You could use a BSC621 lnbf for both c/ku band, Rick carries them. I've used that feed before with great success and is still being used by a bud of mine.
Captain

Registered: 04/24/08
Posts: 2,623
Reply with quote  #7 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 11tuckerjones11


Now can someone save me a ton of R&D and give me the best c/Ku/FTA lna/lnb set up and what interface to use for the drive counter.

I ran a couple of search's on Ricks site but not too much info....

Thanks..

-Tucker


well for the best way to go look here, at the Bullsye-II, after all being a dealer you know about ortho's.
http://www.gofastmotorsports.com/rickssatellitefeedhorns.htm

2nd, forget those 6 crossed feed legs into the Birdview over grown scalar ring, make you either a 3 or 4 legs to hold a modern day scalar ring. it has been my findings that their F/L with the original legs is about 1" short for their 8 1/2-footer, may be their 9 is ok, but I kinda not think so, after all you would have to hone out the Birdview scalar any way to fit a modern day feed, so just cut you;re losses 1st and you will be better off in the long run.

good horizon mount, very well built, but no declination adjustment, I got 1 of their mount here on my ChannelView dish, its been up and running for right about 2 years now, and its been working flawless, I did a step up gear drive for my reed switch, it has almost 8,000 counts from AMC-7 over to Telstar-12 with a 28 magnet wheel, and a G-box runs run it, all day long, with a very low amp draw, under 1-amp draw.
LoneCloud

Registered: 08/29/08
Posts: 197
Reply with quote  #8 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain
Quote:
Originally Posted by 11tuckerjones11


Now can someone save me a ton of R&D and give me the best c/Ku/FTA lna/lnb set up and what interface to use for the drive counter.

I ran a couple of search's on Ricks site but not too much info....

Thanks..

-Tucker


well for the best way to go look here, at the Bullsye-II, after all being a dealer you know about ortho's.
http://www.gofastmotorsports.com/rickssatellitefeedhorns.htm

2nd, forget those 6 crossed feed legs into the Birdview over grown scalar ring, make you either a 3 or 4 legs to hold a modern day scalar ring. it has been my findings that their F/L with the original legs is about 1" short for their 8 1/2-footer, may be their 9 is ok, but I kinda not think so, after all you would have to hone out the Birdview scalar any way to fit a modern day feed, so just cut you;re losses 1st and you will be better off in the long run.

good horizon mount, very well built, but no declination adjustment, I got 1 of their mount here on my ChannelView dish, its been up and running for right about 2 years now, and its been working flawless, I did a step up gear drive for my reed switch, it has almost 8,000 counts from AMC-7 over to Telstar-12 with a 28 magnet wheel, and a G-box runs run it, all day long, with a very low amp draw, under 1-amp draw.


No do not forget the Bv scalar and don't remove the six support legs.

The scalar comes with the smaller, old fashioned hole.  The way I did it was to get a good steel hole saw of the diameter of a new lnb,   drill a hole through a piece of wood with it,  clamp the wood on the scalar with the wood hole lining up center to center with the scalar hole, so that the hole you just drilled in the wood acts as a guide to keep the hole saw centered, Using plenty of oil, you use the same hole saw and drill out the scalar bigger.  Go slow.

You really don't want to re engineer that, It is very secure and does not move.  Not to mention that the four Birdview  lnb mounting holes on the scalar line right up with  the holes in a Geosat scalar,  all you have to basically do is drill off the threads on the Geosat scalar  and bolt it on there. My current and past lnbs have been positioned recessed anywhere from  a quarter inch to an inch recessed in the BV scalar

All of that will take less than an afternoon. Re engineering for new struts and scalars will take weeks and not be as secure
11tuckerjones11

Registered: 02/19/10
Posts: 52
Reply with quote  #9 
Lets see where we go from here..

Continueing with the BV swing into C & ku FTA

1.- The drive has a reed counter already on it, but only has 10 magnets but the suggested build has 24, however it was stated that everyother magnet is reversed so in one reveloution we will get 12 counts..is id that much better than the present 10..???

2.- The BV dish has a six leg lnb mount with a BV plate and a Chapprell dual "C" band adjustable feed already mounted....

So my question is what do I actually need to get V/H on C band and the full FTA setup fo Ku...
One suggestion was use a DMX741 and a QPH031..??
Another was use a ESX741..
What is my best shot, I am going to get a AZ Box from Rick (p+)and most of what else I will need.

Also On the pedastel  there is a cap that holds all...But in the center of this cap there is a 1 inch plus bolt that must tighten the N/S adjustment, QUESTION to loosen this polt is it threaded correctly or does it have reversed threads, Reason I can't move the bolt and before I put power to it I want to make sure my rotation is correct..

-Thanks,

-Tucker


LoneCloud

Registered: 08/29/08
Posts: 197
Reply with quote  #10 
All I can say is that I have had a BSC 621 and then a C-band Geosatpro on my Birdview.  Some say the 741 is better than the 621.  I did get the  621 working for both C and Ku, but I basically lucked it into just the right position one day and only lost it when I got the bright idea of tweaking it for better performance.  I had the Geosatpro C-2 on there for the longest time,  and it worked pretty well for just C band.

Right now I have an orthomode C/Ku feedhorn on  there through a 22 kh switch.  I get both bands now through the Birdview.   It is an expensive option though and I didn't buy it new.

I did  the 24 magnet conversion on mine and have never had any problem with accuracy.  You do have to switch the polarity of the magnets.  As far as whether ten magnets is good, I think it would depend on where the wheel is mounted.  On the end of the shaft, where the original Birdview potentiometer was mounted, there are plastic gears.  If you have it mounted so that the magnet wheel  spins faster than the screw shaft,  it might work fine.  But if your ten magnet wheel is mounted directly on the shaft,  I doubt you will get good pinpoint accuracy

jman59

Avatar / Picture

Registered: 04/16/10
Posts: 77
Reply with quote  #11 
The big bolt that goes down though the center of the cap is standard thread from the factory, not reversed.
LoneCloud

Registered: 08/29/08
Posts: 197
Reply with quote  #12 
That big bolt was a bit of a pain in the neck because no crescent wrench would fit between the two tongues that protrude up.

I ended up getting it with a hammer and a chisel - not to chop the head of the bolt off, but to hit the bolt in the direction of loosen. I put the chisel blade on the head of the boltsort of off center to the right, and hit.

If you have like pb Blaster or Liquid Wrench and you have a box wrench or a socket of that size, You wouldn't have to do what I did. My tool repertoire isn't grand so I went with the hammer/chisel.

jman is correct that the bolt is not reverse thread, but normal thread.
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Fellow Members, your posts are welcome here! Do not worry about posting everything perfect. Different receivers and LNB's will give you different Frequencies and Symbol Rates. Some set top boxes, PCI cards and USB receivers, Do Not Require all of the same information that others may need. It is not Required to post everything that others may need to tune in a feed. It is just most important to share the find. We can always adjust the Frequency and Symbol Rates and try the various Modulations and FEC's on our own receivers until we get a lock and then give a polite reply with what works for your receiver, as that information might help others as well. We all appreciate the efforts and energy of the Posters!

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