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merkin

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Reply with quote  #1 
has anyone ever fully disassembled the mount?
Captain

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Reply with quote  #2 
yes
merkin

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Reply with quote  #3 
@Captain
i am having a heck of a time trying to find out why all of the sudden my worm gear and spur gear are binding.  i thought i had fixed it, but the issue has returned.

when i remove the worm gear, i can move the dish on its polar axis from horizon to horizon without any effort, but once i reinstall the worm gear and move the dish a few times across the arc with the motor, the binding returns.

is it possible to adjust the play between the spur and worm gears?  i see two set screws underneath the top mount plate that are 180 degrees apart from each other.

edit: just wanted to add that i cleaned the gears and re-greased them.  the gears are in perfect condition.
Captain

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Reply with quote  #4 
yes their is a adjustment to add or remove play in the worm and spur gears, but you're going to have to remove the dish from its mounting pole for this. but first check and see that the worm fits tight into its saddle's and both flat bearings are in good shape, then check you're free play between both gears threw out its total movement, if it get tight any where like after 1 or 2 turns you may have a bent worm gear.

to adjust play in the gears, remove the dish from its pipe, remove motor, remove the 4 1/2 " bolts from the square tube that hold the spur gear, remove the 3/8" bolts from the motor plat to the reflector, remove cotter pin and big nut, remove the 7 5/16" bolts on the motor plate for the worm and spur gear then that it to you're work bench, remove worm gear, slide out spur gear. now after all this you are now ready to adjust the play, its a lot of work just to get to this point. on the alum housing where the shaft to the spur gear goes threw you should see a jagged line, draw a line on it for a starting point this will pull out, 1 tooth to the right adds play and the left to take play away. now when checking play have both gears grease free so you can feel the play in them our you can use a feller gauge too.

good luck this should take up a days work for you.
boblop

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Reply with quote  #5 
The Captain should know all about these Birdview mounts. However I "think" there is more than one model design out there for these mounts. I remember partly removing some parts from my first Birdview mount and it had straight line teeth cut into two plate parts and moving them around would change the teeth mesh clearance.

But I found this picture and some talk about these mounts over on Sat Guys and it is mentioned about a bushing with an offset bore and then turning this bushing to change the gear teeth clearance. Plus it was stated that the original parts were drilled and pinned from the factory making later changes not so easy to do. This style just mentioned appears to be supported by this picture. Note the upper bushing for the large spur gear shaft and the pin stuck into the casting and bushing.

So I am still not sure if I may have one of each of these models at my house. But one can see in the picture "IF" all this is true and that bushing was not pinned in place then when moving the dish if this bushing turned the gear teeth clearance would indeed change.

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boblop

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And yes indeed I do have one each of the two different Birdview mount designs. In this picture you can see the "teeth" of which the Captain spoke about. This mount has that main casting all in aluminum as compared to my other picture which has this part mostly all in a cast iron. I wish we had full pictures of all of the mount parts.

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merkin

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Reply with quote  #7 
thanks folks..i found the answer last night.  here are the two threads:
http://www.satelliteguys.us/xen/threads/birdview-powered-quadpanel.348795/
http://www.satelliteguys.us/xen/threads/more-findings-to-make-you-jealous-birdview.363335/

definitely two different mounts and i have the cast iron version.

this is interesting because i wonder if birdview also slightly changed the dish.  there has long been consensus that birdview did not have the correct focal length and many people extend the feed struts, but i have determined that my focal length is dead on with the factory struts.

now the question that i have is what is the point of the set screws that are 180 degrees apart since the eccentric bushing is drilled and pinned???
Captain

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Reply with quote  #8 
with both type of housings cast iron and the cast alum you can set the backlash between the worm and spur gear. but with the cast Iron that's when the set screw would need to be removed then drill another hole and then tap it, pretty sure its 1/4 20 tread. the cast iron was Birdview very 1st style mount that they made I only seen them for about 2 years then came the cast alum housing. both housings iron and alum are very well built and threw out all of my years have never seen any problems with either style.
boblop

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Reply with quote  #9 
Many thanks to merkin for digging up those Sat Guys posts and pictures. I think I  will add limit switches to my dishes in the same way come a warmer day.  
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merkin

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Reply with quote  #10 
@Captain
are you referring to the two set screws or the pressed pin?

if i change the backlash than i understand the need to re-drill a hole and re-press the pin, but i do not understand the need to re-drill and re-tap the holes for the two set screws. 

1: pressed pin
2: set screw (there is a second set screw 180 degrees on the other side also not visible in the photo)
3: not sure what this is, but would like to know (possibly another set screw?)

i do not understand the need for all these set screws, unless the O.D. of the eccentric bushing's stem is smaller than the I.D. of the hole in the cast iron.  can anyone shed some insight?

[Screen_Shot_2016_12_28_at_9_53_20_PM] 
merkin

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Reply with quote  #11 
does anyone know what type of pin that is? taper..tension..etc.
rempfer

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Reply with quote  #12 
I have a question regarding how to handle the ends of the arc, where the Birdview's mount will hit and bind against the pole unless some sort of precaution is taken.  

1. I realize that I can set limits in the VBox II type dish movers -- can I also do that in the Titanium ASC1 that I have purchased for this dish?

2. Is setting limits in the dish mover good enough, or should I still be worried about accidentally travelling the dish beyond its physical limits?
RimaNTSS

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Reply with quote  #13 
If the end-switches in the mover setup correctly then there is no need for additional precautionary measures from VBox or ASC1.
boblop

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Reply with quote  #14 
I would worry.  (a stock factory original Birdview has no built in safety switches)
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RimaNTSS

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Reply with quote  #15 
No build-in end-switches! That is strange! Then it is better to think how to do the mod of installing ones.
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