Welcome to GOFASTMOTORSPORTS.com ... ... ... Green Flag - Green Flag - Go Go Go ... ... Brought to you by Ricks Satellite - Where the Big Dish Rules!

Ricks Satellite Wildfeed and Backhaul Forum
Register Latest Topics
 
 
 


Reply
  Author   Comment   Page 2 of 3      Prev   1   2   3   Next
Comptech

Avatar / Picture

Registered:
Posts: 499
Reply with quote  #16 
Question. I know the dielectric plates in the throat of the feed need to come out, but what about the little plate at the rear of the Ku waveguide? It looks to be metal and crimped into the housing.
__________________
12 foot Unimesh, Pansat DP4 Feed with four Norsat Pll LNB's. Micro HD, Wetek Play and a TBS 6903 PCIe card.Modded WNC 4x8 switch for power. Radio equipment, SDR Play, whistler 1088 and a whistler TRX1. Long wire dipole for HF and a scantenna 2 For VHF and UHF. And of course RS 800 antennas for the road.
Hockeynut

Avatar / Picture

Registered:
Posts: 9,426
Reply with quote  #17 
That is a great question comptech and until you brought it up I never paid any attention to this.Had to look back at pictures before my install to understand what you were referring to.

Appears to be a piece of brass no thicker than a 1/16" of an inch at the end of the Ku waveguide for the Vertical lnb. Weird that is there.No such piece of brass  in the waveguide for the Horizontal side of the feed so not sure what Pansat was thinking here??..Hard to tell how it is held in place just by pics..See no need for it there as When comparing to various other Ku ortho`s ( Prodelin ) it is not there.

What was Pansats design I am not sure but very curious.Either way I could cut this what appears to be a brass rib away and check results for the Vertical lnb but why butcher a great feedhorn when it already performs as good as a 1.2 solid Ch Master for Ku using a 10' Unimesh.

On the Cband waveguide there are 2 ribs cast into the casting 180 degrees from the probes.There was talk about these ribs affecting Cband signals.I took a ADL which I had here and machined these ribs away..I seen no gain or loss at all by removing these cast ribs so I left the DP-4 alone..Did not want to butcher a nice feed horn when an ADL of lesser quality was laying around to test this.

__________________
Dish`s--10' KTI,10' Button Hook,10' Unimesh x2, 12' Cosmos,8 1/2 foot Birdview in the works.
1.2 Ch Masters parked at 91,103,105...1.2 Ch Master on a factory Ch Master polar mount tracking from 58-127.
Positioners--Gbox,Vbox and ASC1`s
Receivers--AZMe,AZPlus,AZElite,Icecrypt S1600 HD,Pansat 9500,VU Solo2 SE,Octagon SF4008 UHD 4K,Prof 7500,TBS 6982.

chewie

Registered:
Posts: 23
Reply with quote  #18 

Hello Gents
Hokeynut I hope you don't mind me adding top this topic.

I got my new dish installed 10 footer with the Pansat DP-4 on it, first I try the C-BAND and I was very happy with quality signal on all the Sats, I had some issues with the Ku-band, I found out I over tighten the set screws on the KU portion and made some indentations on the Ku tube therefore this part is a little loose but it could move so I put some plastic ties to hold it firm for now, I was having problems with the KU-BAND quality signal very low at 103W but it was higher at my true south sat 116.8W, I call Rich and gave me some suggestions, I play with the Latitude at my true south and got better signal, much better signal, after that I switch to the 103W sat and boy, It was getting very good signal, I started with 25% quality, now some of the transponders are getting up to 91% quality.
I am a Happy camper, I never had this type of feed horn, but I am very happy I saw this review and bought my Pansat DP-4.
I need to resize my pictures so I can post them.
Regards.
Chewie

Hockeynut

Avatar / Picture

Registered:
Posts: 9,426
Reply with quote  #19 
Yeah it is a good performer with the right lnb`s for sure chewie.Glad ya like it.

I should have mentioned the Ku waveguide ( tube ) is Aluminum ( possibly brass but most likely anodized Aluminum ) and only .025" thick so over tightening of the set screws will sligthly damage it and depending how tight it was wrenched down obviously depends on the damage.

One thing I did was remove the set screws and grind and then use a scotchbrite 3m wheel to make them flat and smooth so they would not dig in.Otherwise once they have dug in everytime an adjustment is made they fall right back into the same area that was damaged.

I seen this with all bullseyes,quad feeds etc I have tinkered with so the Pansat is not the only one where something like this can happen with a thin wall aluminum tube.

If you feel like you really smoked em down chewie one thing you could do is measure the ID and turn a piece of CR steel or have a machine shop turn a piece of steel for you the Inside Diameter and put a nice smooth lead in radius on the front of it then slide it in the tube til you get to the damaged ( compressed area ) then slightly tap it and it will easily conform the ID and OD just like new.I am getting with a very old set of calipers here .758" so on the safe side I would go no larger than .755".Make sure the steel is very smooth and somewhat polished before doing this and it will be like new again.

Again glad ur liking it chewie.Nice addition to a BUD for sure.

__________________
Dish`s--10' KTI,10' Button Hook,10' Unimesh x2, 12' Cosmos,8 1/2 foot Birdview in the works.
1.2 Ch Masters parked at 91,103,105...1.2 Ch Master on a factory Ch Master polar mount tracking from 58-127.
Positioners--Gbox,Vbox and ASC1`s
Receivers--AZMe,AZPlus,AZElite,Icecrypt S1600 HD,Pansat 9500,VU Solo2 SE,Octagon SF4008 UHD 4K,Prof 7500,TBS 6982.

rempfer

Avatar / Picture

Registered:
Posts: 891
Reply with quote  #20 
I see that Rick has this feed for sale and he offers a discount if one orders the feed and four LNBs as a package.  I'm going to show my ignorance here, but maybe you folks in the know could help guide my decision.  I have experience with C and C/Ku combo LNBFs but have never used an "ortho" (am I using correct terminology?).

I do have the following LNBs, condition unknown.  Would any of them be suitable to use with the Pansat DP-4 or should I forget them and buy Rick's package deal (all new feed and LNBs)?

1 x Norsat 8115 (C-band)
1 x BSCC 83H01 (Ku-band?)
2 x California Amplifier MAG-90
1 x Echostar LNB-EA035
1 x Precision PMJ-LNB (C-band)
1 x Precision PMJ-LNB (Ku-band)
1 x HTC INC Supergold LNB (C-band)
1 x US Platinum Electronics (off a Birdview dish)

Except as noted I am not positive which are C-band and which are Ku-band.  Would any of these be suitable to use with the Pansat DP-4?  Could you explain why so I can get a little smarter here?  

Thank you,

Dick
majortom

Avatar / Picture

Registered:
Posts: 4,942
Reply with quote  #21 
I would think as long as the waveguides will bolt on, any of them should work.
you can easily tell CBAND from Ku Band LNBs by the dimensions of the waveguide.
CBAND is obviously gonna be the larger one.

I think most people spending the cash to install ortho, prefer to use new
matched sets of LNBs though, maybe even splurge for PLL type LNB, if they have the cash on hand.
But it should not be a requirement to get it up and running to install new matching LNBs.
If it were me, I would probably cheap out initially, and see how it went with my existing LNBs.
Though I would probably try them all out and rank as candidates on the existing feed, prior to installing on the ortho.
Just to make sure that I wasn't installing garbage.


__________________
Perfect 10 7.5' mesh Chapparal C/Ku Co-Rotor feed, Norsat 8115 CBAND, Norsat 4106A Ku Thomson Saginaw Actuator, Vbox positioner,
Home Brew Polarotor683 Servo circuit. Openbox S9, Prof7500, v4l-updatelee linux drivers installed.
ricardo's geo-orbit archive: https://web.archive.org/web/20150516202529/http://www.geo-orbit.org:80/sizepgs/tuningp2.html#anchor469886
grouch

Registered:
Posts: 51
Reply with quote  #22 
What else would be needed to use that Pansat DP-4? You have 4 cables coming in from the dish, right? What does it take to sort those into 1 going into a receiver?
majortom

Avatar / Picture

Registered:
Posts: 4,942
Reply with quote  #23 
I believe most people use a Multiswitch along with Power Inserter, to supply constant power.

Some people use the Old made for Direct TV WNC SWA-48 4 X 8 Powered Multi Switches,
as they can easily be disassembled, modified to supply a regulated 18 VDC to each LNB
and reassembled. While providing 22 KHz switching to switch between paths.




__________________
Perfect 10 7.5' mesh Chapparal C/Ku Co-Rotor feed, Norsat 8115 CBAND, Norsat 4106A Ku Thomson Saginaw Actuator, Vbox positioner,
Home Brew Polarotor683 Servo circuit. Openbox S9, Prof7500, v4l-updatelee linux drivers installed.
ricardo's geo-orbit archive: https://web.archive.org/web/20150516202529/http://www.geo-orbit.org:80/sizepgs/tuningp2.html#anchor469886
Hockeynut

Avatar / Picture

Registered:
Posts: 9,426
Reply with quote  #24 
Yup majortom is right on.[smile].What I use is Zinwell 4803`s and they come with a external power supply.Work very well and are dirt cheap.I see so little loss using these it`s not even worth commenting..At 1 time through the years before downscaling the system I had as many as 20 in the system.Only had 1 failure so they are very reliable.

Some folks like using laptop power supplies with bias tees to juice all the lnb`s equally.ACRadio did it this way and many others also..Benefits both ways but the powered 4x8`s are a simple and reliable start.

The nice thing about using a 4x8 along with a vbox or gbox is it leaves you with 7 other outputs that can go to any other stb`s or puters in the system..So essentially ya have 1 receiver controlling the dish and the rest of the other`s can view also...Now couple all this up with many dish`s and ya have a mini headend just changing the ch..Workin like a sub..lol..

__________________
Dish`s--10' KTI,10' Button Hook,10' Unimesh x2, 12' Cosmos,8 1/2 foot Birdview in the works.
1.2 Ch Masters parked at 91,103,105...1.2 Ch Master on a factory Ch Master polar mount tracking from 58-127.
Positioners--Gbox,Vbox and ASC1`s
Receivers--AZMe,AZPlus,AZElite,Icecrypt S1600 HD,Pansat 9500,VU Solo2 SE,Octagon SF4008 UHD 4K,Prof 7500,TBS 6982.

GFM

Avatar / Picture

Registered:
Posts: 572
Reply with quote  #25 
Hockey, do you mod the 4803s to provide 18v for the vertical LNBs or do you use a power inserter?
__________________
Receivers: AzBox Ultra, Micro HD
-10' dish with Chaparral Corotor II/Norsat DRO LNBs
-36"Ku with SG2100 & PLL321S-2 --... ...--
Hockeynut

Avatar / Picture

Registered:
Posts: 9,426
Reply with quote  #26 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GFM
Hockey, do you mod the 4803s to provide 18v for the vertical LNBs or do you use a power inserter?

Nah I have never modded one to power the Vertical side at 18v.Works fine for me right out of the box...There is a thread somewhere here or at the other site where pendragon has done this yrs ago.Hopefully pendragon sees our post`s and gives us the skinny.[smile].

__________________
Dish`s--10' KTI,10' Button Hook,10' Unimesh x2, 12' Cosmos,8 1/2 foot Birdview in the works.
1.2 Ch Masters parked at 91,103,105...1.2 Ch Master on a factory Ch Master polar mount tracking from 58-127.
Positioners--Gbox,Vbox and ASC1`s
Receivers--AZMe,AZPlus,AZElite,Icecrypt S1600 HD,Pansat 9500,VU Solo2 SE,Octagon SF4008 UHD 4K,Prof 7500,TBS 6982.

pendragon

Registered:
Posts: 1,017
Reply with quote  #27 
I started a thread in 2009 about modifying WNC 4x8 powered switches to supply 18V on all outputs here:

https://www.satelliteguys.us/xen/threads/naughty-mods-ii-4x8-switch-with-all-18v-outputs.174802/

The WNC switches are rated from 950 to 1450 MHz, and work fine for most FTA purposes in North America. All of the switches I've tested actually roll off much higher, generally around 1800 MHz, but I've occasionally used them all the way up to 2150 MHz. C-band should be cake.

I've also experimented with Zinwell 6x8 (unpowered) and 6x16 (powered) switches, mostly to get 6 inputs instead of 4, but these particular Zinwells are rated to 2150 MHz and measure better up there than the WNCs. I haven't done a scientific evaluation, but my gut feeling is the Zinwell switches tend to have slightly higher noise figures than the WNCs, but unless you run very low levels, the effect should be negligible. I published a thread about modding the 6x8 switches, but as those are unpowered, you need an external supply and are simply tapping into the power inserters in the switches themselves. I prefer this because I always have 50-60 LNB inputs  entering my attic, and anything that reduces the wiring is good. I've modded a 6x16 switch for a quick test, but never published anything on that. My long term plan is to convert all my switches to 6x16, and if and when I do that, I will better document the process and publish a thread. In the meantime, this is what I wrote for the 6x8 mod:

https://www.satelliteguys.us/xen/threads/naughty-mods-iii-6x8-switch-with-power-insertion.190889/


pendragon

Registered:
Posts: 1,017
Reply with quote  #28 
Forgot to add: nearly 10 years ago I purchased a WNC 4x8 switch and a Zinwell 4803 (powered) 4x8 switch for testing. Both measured fine, but the WNC was clearly better. That's why I ended up buying a gaggle of WNCs, which eventually led to the all 18V output mod for them. I never modded my 4803, because there was no point, but I'm still using it for a non-critical application where I need 18/13V outputs. I'm not badmouthing my 4803. It works fine within its spec range, but I prefer the WNC when it comes to a 4x8 switch.
rempfer

Avatar / Picture

Registered:
Posts: 891
Reply with quote  #29 
Quote:
Originally Posted by majortom
I believe most people use a Multiswitch along with Power Inserter, to supply constant power.

Two questions:
1. Is a "Multiswitch" the same thing as a DiSEqC switch?
2. Do LNBs not work with the lower of the two voltages (i.e., as supplied by the STB based on polarity) such that a power inserter must be used?
majortom

Avatar / Picture

Registered:
Posts: 4,942
Reply with quote  #30 
No, a multiswitch is not the same as a diseqc switch.
A  diseqc switch typically allows connecting/switching multiple LNBs to one receiver path
and has some smarts embedded in the form of a protocol.
A multiswitch allows connecting multiple lnbs to multiple receivers simultaneously, without using
any smarts or protocol. Or very limited smarts, in the form of simple/solid 22 KHz tone.

The only reason I can think of for modifying a powered multiswitch switch is that some
people think their LNBs will operate better at the higher voltage, for some reason.


__________________
Perfect 10 7.5' mesh Chapparal C/Ku Co-Rotor feed, Norsat 8115 CBAND, Norsat 4106A Ku Thomson Saginaw Actuator, Vbox positioner,
Home Brew Polarotor683 Servo circuit. Openbox S9, Prof7500, v4l-updatelee linux drivers installed.
ricardo's geo-orbit archive: https://web.archive.org/web/20150516202529/http://www.geo-orbit.org:80/sizepgs/tuningp2.html#anchor469886
Previous Topic | Next Topic
Print
Reply

Quick Navigation:

Easily create a Forum Website with Website Toolbox.

Fellow Members, your posts are welcome here! Do not worry about posting everything perfect. Different receivers and LNB's will give you different Frequencies and Symbol Rates. Some set top boxes, PCI cards and USB receivers, Do Not Require all of the same information that others may need. It is not Required to post everything that others may need to tune in a feed. It is just most important to share the find. We can always adjust the Frequency and Symbol Rates and try the various Modulations and FEC's on our own receivers until we get a lock and then give a polite reply with what works for your receiver, as that information might help others as well. We all appreciate the efforts and energy of the Posters!

Thank You for Visiting GOFASTMOTORSPORTS.com - Keep Your Eyes on the Sky and the Track!