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majortom

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Reply with quote  #1 
Woke up this morning to the S9 Constantly rebooting.
Like OK here we go. If ya removed the load on the power supply,
by disconnecting the cable from Pwr supply output, to main board input, the power supply output voltages seemed stable with no load.
So it was still fundamentally functional. They are labelled +24V, +12V and +5V at the output ribbon cable connector.
If ya monitored any of the output voltages while loaded, none of them were stable. They all followed they same pattern as the rebooting. Closed loop feedback shutting er down under load.

Found C19 on the Pwr Supply Board was toast.
C19 and C17 are in parallel, next to each other so they add up for a total of 3000 uF.
C17 measured OK, while C19 Measured only 100 UF on my Triplett DMM.
For now I replaced C19 with a 1000 uF 35 V, all I had handy in the parts bin,
and for now it's working. Should be OK while I await new caps from Digikey.
Popped the new Littlefuse resettable Fuse / Posistor in while I was in there.
Cleaned up all the mung underneath the Main Board with denatured alchohol while I had it all apart.
Looked like brown flux mung left over from the factory post wave bath.
Anyway, it's all back together scannin the sky again till I get the correct new caps.

For future reference here is a list of all the electrolytic caps on the Power Supply Board of the Openbox S9.

Openbox S9 Power Supply
Constant Reboot

Electrolytic Caps
These two are in parallel on the +5V output line if I remember correctly. So if ya ever need to replace one, maybe assume the inevitable and replace em both at the same time.
C19 1500 uF 10 V 105 deg C    Toast             Digikey P14379-ND
C17 1500 uF 10 V 105 deg C    looks and measures OK    Digikey P14379-ND

rest of these just because they are also on other output voltages.
C12 470 uF 35V 105 deg C    Digikey P12415-ND
C13 220 uF 35V 105 deg C    Digikey P5552-ND
C14 220 uF 25V 105 deg C    Digikey P12383-ND
C15 100 uF 25V 105 deg C    Digikey P5540-ND
 
Not as likely needing to be replaced save for catastrophic failures.
C4 33uF 50V 105 deg C        Digikey P5567-ND
Main AC Rectifier Filter Cap
C2 33uF 400V 105 deg C        Digikey 565-1464-ND

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Perfect 10 7.5' mesh Chapparal C/Ku Co-Rotor feed, Norsat 8115 CBAND, Norsat 4106A Ku Thomson Saginaw Actuator, Vbox positioner,
Home Brew Polarotor683 Servo circuit. Openbox S9, Prof7500, v4l-updatelee linux drivers installed.
ricardo's geo-orbit archive: https://web.archive.org/web/20150516202529/http://www.geo-orbit.org:80/sizepgs/tuningp2.html#anchor469886
Pixl

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Reply with quote  #2 

Interesting find, most S-9 power problems end up being the polyfuse or the LNB voltage regulator, not the supply itself. This is the first I've read of the S-9 power supply actually bad. Now the S-10 supplies are poorly designed with undersized parts.
I'm saving the info from this fix.


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4:2:2 AZminiMe slaved off C/Ku
majortom

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Reply with quote  #3 
the original caps all say they are mfr'd by some "Econd" never heard of 'em.
Must be some chinese cap mfr. 

here's a pic of the pwr supply caps.
should be able to tell which one is the bad C19.

http://db.tt/AMG2CzJL

https://db.tt/SzRhV8HP

and the flux mung, not sure how well ya can see.

http://db.tt/NEqh1vaZ

Edit: after a little googlin, looks like "Econd" is a Russian Capacitor manufacturer.

 
Quote:
The major foreign manufacturers are: the United States Maxwell company, Russia’s Econd company, Elit company, 
Japan’s Elna Company, Panasonic Corporation, Nec-Tokin Corporation, 
Korea Ness companies, Korchip company, Nuintek companies.
 
 

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Perfect 10 7.5' mesh Chapparal C/Ku Co-Rotor feed, Norsat 8115 CBAND, Norsat 4106A Ku Thomson Saginaw Actuator, Vbox positioner,
Home Brew Polarotor683 Servo circuit. Openbox S9, Prof7500, v4l-updatelee linux drivers installed.
ricardo's geo-orbit archive: https://web.archive.org/web/20150516202529/http://www.geo-orbit.org:80/sizepgs/tuningp2.html#anchor469886
majortom

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Reply with quote  #4 
got the new caps and finished this up today.
I wound up replacing all of the Russian Caps, only because I've never heard of them. Normally I wouldn't bother replacing all. They are cheap enough.

http://db.tt/WyjTbASr

While only C19 was actually bad (measured 59 uF out of circuit) , C17 it's identical twin in parallel measured >2000uF, which is ~ +33%. Possibly how it limped along with a bad cap for so long (2 years or so?)...

Box is back up and working.


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Perfect 10 7.5' mesh Chapparal C/Ku Co-Rotor feed, Norsat 8115 CBAND, Norsat 4106A Ku Thomson Saginaw Actuator, Vbox positioner,
Home Brew Polarotor683 Servo circuit. Openbox S9, Prof7500, v4l-updatelee linux drivers installed.
ricardo's geo-orbit archive: https://web.archive.org/web/20150516202529/http://www.geo-orbit.org:80/sizepgs/tuningp2.html#anchor469886
WellerTip

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Reply with quote  #5 
One of my S9's found dead today. Opened it up and C13 had exploded. Blew its guts everywhere, unable to even read the label on the can that was floating around the chassis. But Tom's post from years ago quickly answered that question.
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majortom

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Reply with quote  #6 
Nice...just noticed your post. Got it working OK by now I assume?
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Perfect 10 7.5' mesh Chapparal C/Ku Co-Rotor feed, Norsat 8115 CBAND, Norsat 4106A Ku Thomson Saginaw Actuator, Vbox positioner,
Home Brew Polarotor683 Servo circuit. Openbox S9, Prof7500, v4l-updatelee linux drivers installed.
ricardo's geo-orbit archive: https://web.archive.org/web/20150516202529/http://www.geo-orbit.org:80/sizepgs/tuningp2.html#anchor469886
WellerTip

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Reply with quote  #7 
Yepper, and thanks again!
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electronmini

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Reply with quote  #8 
Hi, my S9 open box does not work after a "Factory Restore" from main menu.

I get "NoCH" after Iturn it "oN". It goes through the: oN; boot;----; and then NoCH.

I know it was not a bright move for me to do that, but is done and need to deal with the cards I have.

Right now does not accept remote input (ďoing for 4 years, but I could operate menus and channels with front buttons, so I lived with it).

I open the box a measured the IrR's pin 2 & 3 and get 4.3 volts dc. I try the remote but the light does not blind k and the display stuck solid on NoCH.

Checked physically capacitors and no bulging or overheating any component.

The only front buttons that works is STANDBY/ON, the other six do not make the display blink.

Any suggestions as possible steps to follow. All I have with me is my digital MULTIMETER and soldering iron.

Is it possible to get a diagram to check voltage & conponents?

Any help will be much appreciated, I am in the bundoks in northern Ontario and miss very much my PBS PROGRAMS.

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mountaineer

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Reply with quote  #9 
do you have a computer with a serial port? And do  you have a serial cable? If you do I will post some FW for you to load and try...everything may have become corrupted and need to be reloaded. It could also be a cap....let me know.
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 36" KU Dish Linear, 10 ft prime focus Mesh, 7.5ft prime focus mesh dish C and KU.
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majortom

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Reply with quote  #10 
Factory Restore will take it to the default, with no channels or selected satellites configured. So that's normal...
You said the Remote doesn't work? Can't interact with a receiver without a remote so I would concentrate on that first,
I would verify if the remote wasn't working by aiming the remote at an Android Phone's Camera View finder. Most Android phones have a Camera CCD which is sensitive to infrared light.
If you don't see any sign of infrared light when buttons are pressed while looking at the remote's LED from the phone's viewfinder, try fresh batteries
and clean the remote keypad membrane.... If ya do see Infrared LED blinking as ya press buttons,
I would get a new Infrared Detector Module for the Receiver. I am sure they can be found any place that sells replacement
parts for consumer electronics. ie mcm electronics. parts express, etc.
Radio Shack used to sell suitable IR detector modules also.

4.3 VDC at the remote sensor sounds a bit low, dunno how critical that is. Just guessing it would be 5.0 VDC nominally.
Are you sure there isn't any significant AC component riding on that 4.3VDC? If there is, then I'd suspect Bad Caps
on the Power Supply Module. The Power Supply PC Board is labelled very well. You can tell what Pins are what Voltage, etc.
Visually inspecting capacitors is not good enough to rule out whether they are bad or not.
History tells me they are bad the day they were soldered in to the board, given they are no name brand as noted above.

I am confused how you could do a factory restore if the remote hasn't been working all along though.

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Perfect 10 7.5' mesh Chapparal C/Ku Co-Rotor feed, Norsat 8115 CBAND, Norsat 4106A Ku Thomson Saginaw Actuator, Vbox positioner,
Home Brew Polarotor683 Servo circuit. Openbox S9, Prof7500, v4l-updatelee linux drivers installed.
ricardo's geo-orbit archive: https://web.archive.org/web/20150516202529/http://www.geo-orbit.org:80/sizepgs/tuningp2.html#anchor469886
majortom

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Reply with quote  #11 
Took mine apart for you..
on mine i measure the same 4.3 vdc on the front panel board's ir sensor as you did.
Below are readings from my power supply... There is less than 25 mV of ac component on any of
power supply output pins.

Power Supply CN2 Pin

2 -> 24V Line  -> 25.9 VDC
3 -> 12V Line -> 12.5 VDC
5 -> 5V Line   -> 5.2 VDC
6 -> 5V Line   -> 5.2 VDC

Pins 1 and 4 are ground, but it is easier to clip your meter's ground on the chassis than it is that small connector.

There is a program that allows sending and receiving channel List file to the Box over ethernet,
that is much easier than chasing down a PC with an RS-232 Port and a null modem cable.
Just would need to determine it's IP address without any hands since your remote doesn't work.
With any luck it may be set for DHCP ON, in which case it would just acquire an IP address from
your router.  Otherwise if DHCP is set to OFF, it would be manually defined in the settings which you apparently
cannot see.


Attached Images
Click image for larger version - Name: S9_Power_CN2.JPG, Views: 6, Size: 249.90 KB 

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Perfect 10 7.5' mesh Chapparal C/Ku Co-Rotor feed, Norsat 8115 CBAND, Norsat 4106A Ku Thomson Saginaw Actuator, Vbox positioner,
Home Brew Polarotor683 Servo circuit. Openbox S9, Prof7500, v4l-updatelee linux drivers installed.
ricardo's geo-orbit archive: https://web.archive.org/web/20150516202529/http://www.geo-orbit.org:80/sizepgs/tuningp2.html#anchor469886

electronmini

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Reply with quote  #12 
Jus figure it out. I am measuring today and let you know my voltage readings.
Also I thoght that maybe cheap to replace the small front panel with tge Remote control sensor. It says PCB-JKB1U-02 (Not sure aabout the U if it is a V) but I cannot fing that board at all whe I google it ! !
I thought it should be a board that is generic to a lots of sets, but how do I find a vendor?
Thanks a lot for your time

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electronmini

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Reply with quote  #13 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mountaineer
do you have a computer with a serial port? And do  you have a serial cable? If you do I will post some FW for you to load and try...everything may have become corrupted and need to be reloaded. It could also be a cap....let me know.

FORGOT to mention that now the front control buttons on the S9 do not have any effect.
So it is not only that lost ability to handshake with the tv, but also there is not acceptance of signals from the remote control (nothing new because it was like that before) but the front control buttons do not work at all with the exception of the STANDBY/ON button.

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electronmini

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Reply with quote  #14 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mountaineer
do you have a computer with a serial port? And do  you have a serial cable? If you do I will post some FW for you to load and try...everything may have become corrupted and need to be reloaded. It could also be a cap....let me know.

FORGOT to mention that now the front control buttons on the S9 do not have any effect.
So it is not only that lost ability to handshake with the tv, but also there is not acceptance of signals from the remote control (nothing new because it was like that before) but the front control buttons do not work at all with the exception of the STANDBY/ON button.

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electronmini

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Reply with quote  #15 
Quote:
Originally Posted by majortom
Took mine apart for you..
on mine i measure the same 4.3 vdc on the front panel board's ir sensor as you did.
Below are readings from my power supply... There is less than 25 mV of ac component on any of
power supply output pins.

Power Supply CN2 Pin

2 -> 24V Line  -> 25.9 VDC
3 -> 12V Line -> 12.5 VDC
5 -> 5V Line   -> 5.2 VDC
6 -> 5V Line   -> 5.2 VDC

Pins 1 and 4 are ground, but it is easier to clip your meter's ground on the chassis than it is that small connector.

There is a program that allows sending and receiving channel List file to the Box over ethernet,
that is much easier than chasing down a PC with an RS-232 Port and a null modem cable.
Just would need to determine it's IP address without any hands since your remote doesn't work.
With any luck it may be set for DHCP ON, in which case it would just acquire an IP address from
your router.  Otherwise if DHCP is set to OFF, it would be manually defined in the settings which you apparently
cannot see.




MajorTom:
I checked power supply voltages and all ok, so I went and purchased the RS-232 / RS-232 cable and connected to my laptop tring to figure out how to a date the software.

Well, got a good surprise on how convoluted is to establish the link and actually replace the software. It will be a steep learning curve if I do not find some software to assist. I am sure I should be able to do it, even if it meant learning all there is about rs232 comunicación.
Any sgustion on an easy way or software, and where I can find the updated S9 Software?
That should do it, it did work for 4 years without remote control using only front panel buttons. The only thing that changed was the "reset"
Thanks.

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